Quebec's Design Moxie

Just back from a week trip to Montreal, and I was surprised by how far along the city has come on the design front since my last visit a few years back. I have to admit, it's pretty easy to get all wrapped up in the San Francisco we-are-the-center-of-the-hipster-design-universe bubble, so it was really refreshing to see well thought-out design all over the city. Here are a few examples that caught my eye: Bixi I've been reading about bikeshare/rent programs in Europe for ages, but had yet to experience one - and then I met Bixi. All it took was a swipe of my credit card, a quick glance at the map to see the nearest Bixi location next to where I was going, a 6-digit pin (to unlock an available bike), and I was off. No fuss or trouble, and the best part was the basket up front to hold my trusty SAQ stash and the kickstand for when I needed to stop to take in the sights.  This for a third of the price of a cab to the same spot (about $4). I also found out afterward that there's a Bixi truck dude who drives around the city filling up (or emptying out) Bixi stations, so you always have a bike at hand. Design in Montreal It's rare that I give kudos to cities for anything - I'm more used to ripping them apart for their crappy public transportation, dirty roads, etc. But Montreal was different. I was amazed by how everywhere I looked, there was useful signage pointing out historic landmarks and directions for how to get to places of interest, all in both English and French (obvious for Canada, but still a delight for out-of-towners). Beyond useful signage, the city itself seems more radiant than before. From the stunning beauty of the Basilic de Notre Dame, to the hyper modern Mutek building, what I used to see as a hodgepodge of ancient victorians stuck next to shining highrises I now see as a pleasing mix of old and new. Design has advanced beyond architecture, as well: the new STM (public transit) look-and-feel is a breath of fresh air, the redesign of the Lafleur identity took it from dingy diner to clean cuisine, and the local restaurant Carte Blanche, with a single chef/owner and sublime food points to an emerging culture of holistic design. It might just be my design tastes that have changed, but I really do think Montreal is coming into its own. Design in Quebec City Quebec City, while a totally different flavor to Montreal, is also showing its design savvy. A longtime tourist destination, it's not surprising that signage is easy to follow, nor that there are pancartes (placards) with interesting information sprinkled throughout the city. It seems that when you're in a place that's been around for 400 years, you're never far from a historic site - and Quebec does a good job of surfacing all that fabulous detail. I also loved the new totally sweet electric Ecolobus system from RTQ, a nice attempt to reduce the carbon footprint on what is the oldest fortified city in North America. I was surprised - as I always am - by how Quebec is a culture all its own; I've never understood how a single province so close to the U.S. can be the fount of so many industries - most of which are unknown to the rest of Canada, never mind anywhere else. The venerable Simons department store sells major brand labels you'll find anywhere else, but also has its own line of clothing and housewares that sell like wildfire (the former to yours truly). Tim Hortons is everywhere, which is good because on cold days you'll want a warm cup of coffee or hot soup, and if you ever want to tap into the huge Quebecois music scene, you're never too far from an Archambault. And finally, there's the strangest - and most delicious - artifact of all: poutine. Repulsive to those who've never had it, an addiction for 99.9% of those who have, poutine (a mix of french fries, special gravy and cheddar cheese curds) is probably the most designed dish on the planet. I find it best straight up a la sauce brune, but the adventurous can try l'Italienne, la Galvaude, le Greque, la Mexicaine and a dozen of other variations. Every part of a poutine can be tweaked, and everyone has their favorite place with the "best" poutine (mine is Chez Boub in Lac Beauport). In any case, poutine is proof that over-designing isn't always a bad thing. Final thought? Don't judge a city by its cover, you might be surprised at how well designed it is, after all.